The Brew Bag for Keggles - Designed for no sparge Brew In A Bag
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The Brew Bag is a Made in the USA, purpose designed BIAB bag. It has four loops for lifting the bag out of your kettle, every seam is reinforced for long life allows you to start all-grain brewing with one kettle. Not A One Time Use Bag - The Brew Bag can be used over and over! Truly the last Brew in a Bag (BIAB) you'll ever need!
This is a double use bag as we recommend that it also be used as a suspended hop bag.
The material is 100% polyester with an opening of 0.0083”.
You’ll notice that the interior of the bag is seamless, so no particles of any kind can get caught.
It cleans with a shake and a rinse.
You can now use the brew in a bag method with your keggle! This bag fits American Sanke kegs with at least an 11" opening.
Features of The Brew Bag for Keggle's
- Use again and again - not a throw-away bag
- 2" loops for lifting either by hand or with a pulley and hook
- Holds over 100 pounds of grain
- Use it as your hop bag - but it must be suspended above the kettle bottom
- We encourage the use of a plate chiller - the most efficient cooling option
- Will not catch on the "lip" of the keggle
- Smooth seams on the interior enable quick cleaning
- All strapping intersections are reinforced with "X" stitching
- 1" polypropylene straps cover the seams and bear the strain on every use - this bag will last and last
- Hand wash and drip dry
Top 10 Reasons to try the Brew In a Bag (BIAB) method of home brewing using The Brew Bag
Low Cost Entry To All Grain Brewing! Get started with the lowest possible cost options on equipment and ingredients.
Save Money - A typical 10-gallon batch of beer using all-grain costs about 50% of kit price
Cleaner Beer -The Brew Bags' 90 threads per inch filtering capability prevents grain particulates from getting into the wort
Use it as your hop bag - just suspend it over the kettle, add some copper or stainless for weight, and toss in the hops
Use a plate chiller - the fastest most efficient method for chilling wort - because there is nothing in the wort to clog the chiller.
Save Time - A typical Brew In A Bag session takes about three and a half hours - including set-up and clean-up!
Not A One Time Use Bag - The Brew Bag can be used over and over.
Easy Lifting - The strapping makes a convenient handle to lift the bag - use your hands or a pulley and hook
Fast Cleanup - The Brew Bag™ is constructed so you can turn it upside down and give it a shake - the grain falls out - just rinse and dry
Save Space - with the Brew In A Bag method you don't need a three tier stand - one burner - one kettle - one bag - one stand
Bottom line: The Brew Bag makes brewing great beer at home easier, faster, and more affordable (which means you can now brew more beer!).
Instructions For How To Use The Brew Bag using the Brew In A Bag method.
You're about to make great beer - pay attention!
The Brew Bag allows the brewing process to be simplified through the use of one kettle and one burner for the entire brewing process. Compare this to the typical three vessel system which includes a hot water kettle, a mash tun (cooler), and a boiling kettle, plus two burners. The Brew Bag fabric filter serves as the link between the three by combining them into the same vessel.
The Brew Bag is placed in the boil kettle after the total volume of water needed to brew has been heated to strike temperature. Grain is then added to the bag (which is in the kettle) and in 45-60 minutes converts the starches into fermentable sugars (the mash). After the mash is complete, The Brew Bag is lifted out of the kettle leaving behind the wort (that's brewer lingo for the water + grain results) which is now ready to boil.
To further explain the difference between brew in a bag and a three tier sparge set-up: to reach proper wort volume, additional hot water is added to the mash tun after the mash has completed to “push” the wort out of the tun and into the boil kettle. This is called sparging and depending on the type of sparging, can take 30 to 90 minutes. The Brew In A Bag method eliminates this step.
1. General Information.
The Brew Bag is constructed of materials that will not leach into your wort. All materials have a heat tolerance of 330° - but are not fireproof. The bag is sewn so that it cleans with a shake and a thorough inside and out rinsing. If you use it for pellet hop additions, you will need to hand wash each time to remove the hop oil residue with an emulsifying dish soap like Dawn .
2. Make sure it fits properly.
Get your brewing kettle, place the bag inside so that the bottom of the bag is flat on the kettle bottom and the top of the bag is outside the kettle. There should be two to four inches overhang on the outside of the kettle and the bag should fit loosely inside all around. It should not pull one way or the other off the sides as you place both your hands opposite each other inside the kettle and press the bag against the sides.
3. Preparation for use.
Hand wash the bag in very warm water and a your favorite homebrew cleaner. Triple rinse with clear water to remove all traces of cleaner and then hang to dry. The bag will dry very quickly when hung. - THERE IS NO NEED TO TWIST. DO NOT PLACE IN A CLOTHES DRYER.
Basic Brewing Instructions Using The Brew Bag
1. Water Volume
The Brew In A Bag method calls for the total volume of water needed to be added to the kettle all at once. To achieve a consistent result, it is necessary to understand and calculate that volume as close as possible. If your calculations are off, there are two remedies; add water to the fermenter or boil kettle, or boil off excess water.
Here’s a general rule of thumb for water volume using The Brew Bag.
An average five gallon batch grain bill (total amount of grain to be used) with pre-boil gravity of 1.035 will call for ten pounds of grain. Each pound of grain will absorb approximately ten ounces of water and you’ll toss that with the spent grain, so it’s a loss of volume.
A five gallon batch calls for 5.25 gallons into the fermenter which equals 672 ounces
Over a sixty-minute boil, based on a number of factors, evaporation will be ten to twenty percent, but you’ll also lose water volume to evaporation heating up and cooling down, so it’s a bit more than that. Trub (proteins and other matter) loss in the kettle, plus in the fermenter will be two to four quarts. So added to the fermenter volume, that’s roughly 7.5 gallons of water. The rule of thumb is: add 8.25 gallons of water to your kettle for an average (OG - 1.035-1.050) five gallon batch. The extra water 3 quarts compared to the chart below is to compensate for the differences in water surface area (which affects evaporation) for all the different kettles used, and trub loss variations, both in the kettle and the fermenter.
|Water absorbed by 10 lbs grain = approx-10 oz per lb||Evaporation 7-15%||Trub - both in the kettle and the fermenter||5.25 gal into the fermenter||Total water needed for 5 gal batch|
|100 ounces||100 ounces||100 ounces||672 ounces||972 oz = 7.59 gals|
If you’re making an above average alcohol content beer, (above 1.050 OG) and use more than ten pounds of grain, add 12 oz of water for every pound of grain over ten. That doesn’t sound like much, but eight pounds more (or eighteen pounds total) is ninety-six additional ounces, which is 3/4 of a gallon. You can always add water to reach volume and you can always boil longer to reduce volume. This will concentrate the sugars in the wort and allow you to hit your Original Gravity target.
Total Grain Bill Average 5 gal batch
|Average Total Gal Water||Total Ounces||Total Quarts|
Now heat the water to your strike temperature (that means the temperature at which you stop heating and add the grain). The temperature of the mash (water with grain added) after adding the grain will fluctuate from batch to batch based on the temperature and volume of the grain. Measure the grain temperature each time and bear that in mind when calculating strike temperature as explained in Rule of Thumb #2 below.
Rule of thumb # 2 - Mash Temperature Calculations
The optimal strike temperature of the water for an average (post-boil gravity of 1.050) beer is approximately 157°. For a ten pound grain bill with a grain temperature of 70° F that is added to 8.25 gallons of water at 157°F (strike temperature) the water/mash temperature will drop 5° to 7° F after adding the grain. That’s why the strike water is a higher temperature than the actual desired mash temperature.
Conversion of starch into fermentable sugars occurs most favorably between 143°F and 161°F, so that’s your target temperature range after adding grain. Try to maintain temperature above 150° throughout the mash period as optimum conversion occurs closer to 152°.
|Temp °F||Enzyme||Breaks Down|
|40-45 °C||104.0-113.0 °F||β-Glucanase||β-Glucan|
|50-54 °C||122.0-129.2 °F||Protease||Protein|
|62-67 °C||143.6-152.6 °F||β-Amylase||Starch|
|71-72 °C||159.8-161.6 °F||α-Amylase||Starch|
This range is crucial to the enzymatic conversion potential of starches to fermentable sugars. After the grain has been added to the water and stirred thoroughly, record the temperature on your brew sheet instructions. You’ll reference this when recording the temperature loss over the forty-five to sixty minute mash period.
2. Maintaining Temperature
No matter what the ambient temperature, insulating the kettle after adding the grain is very important. This is done to maintain the mash temperature and keep the enzymes working on the starch to convert it to sugar.
A good material to insulate the kettle is HVAC duct wrap that has been laid flat, cut to length and then taped with aluminum duct tape. Form a pillow out of the excess to place on the top of the kettle and then drape a blanket over the entire kettle with the insulation in place. Use a bungee cord, or Velcro to secure the material to the kettle before putting the blanket on. If you don’t have access to that material, drape a couple of blankets over the kettle - MAKE CERTAIN THE FLAME HAS BEEN TURNED OFF!
If you are brewing on your stove in a three gallon pot or similar, try placing the pot in the oven compartment during the mash to serve as the insulator - do not turn the oven on.
3. Mash Time and Lifting The Brew Bag®
By the way, the myth about releasing tannins from the grain by squeezing the grain bag is just that - a myth. Tannins are extracted at mash temps and are a normal result, however, pH above 5.8 combined with temperature above 170º may cause excess tannins to be extracted and that could produce a bitter tasting beer. So, use insulated rubber gloves and squeeze that bag!
4. Emptying The Brew Bag
After the wort has drained, use insulated rubber gloves to empty The Brew Bag by grasping the bottom of the bag by the strapping and giving it a quick shake. The grain will simply fall out. Shake it a few more times and then turn it inside out and shake again. Then thoroughly rinse in warm water and hang to dry. If you are going to use The Brew Bag for the hop additions, just rinse and set aside until the boil begins.
A helpful tip.
Ignore the lautering requirement (and this is in BeerSmith software as well) to raise the mash temperature by rinsing the grain with 170° water, or to raise the mash temp to 168° for a “mash-out”. In conventional lautering, this is done to help the wort flow, deactivate the enzymes and stop conversion - listen - you are lifting the grain out of the wort and you have already calculated your water volume and it is in the kettle - mash-out temperature and sparging is not necessary. In addition, you’re going to begin the boil in less than fifteen minutes after lifting The Brew Bag, so you’ll exceed the 170° mark anyway. In addition, the wort sugars between the bag and the kettle bottom are super-heated and may burn as you stir the grain in the bag while heating.
5. Boil away - we’re getting closer to the beer!
Boiling the wort does two things - it allows the hops to isomerize (literally change molecularly) which, depending on the length of time in the boil, will impart degrees of bitterness, flavor, or aroma to the beer, so this is a critical step in the process.
If you’re going to use The Brew Bag for your hop additions, (and we recommend that you do) you must not allow the bag to come into contact with the bottom of the kettle while the flame is on as it may scorch or melt the bag. Find a way to suspend the bag into the kettle about halfway into the wort. That’s additional incentive for using an overhead lift. To keep the The Brew Bag from billowing during the boil, add some weight to the bag by dropping in something stainless,or copper, maybe a few washers or whatever. The Brew Bag with the hops inside needs to stay in the wort and not billow.
The second result that occurs from boiling is the reduction of the volume of wort through evaporation. You calculated this loss of volume when you were creating the total volume. At the end of the boil time if the OG result is too low, it is likely because your water volume is too high, so you need to reduce volume by boiling to evaporate and concentrate the wort and hit the OG numbers.
You must consider that the longer the hops are boiling the more bitter the beer will be - so if you need to boil off some water, and you catch the pre-boil OG number as too low, wait until the proper volume is reached through evaporation to add the hops, and then start the timer as required by the recipe.
6. When the boil time is up, lift the bag with the hops, allow it to drain, and proceed as normal to chill your wort into the fermenter.
The first time or two you brew using The Brew Bag, you’ll discover how to control some of the variables and you’ll change things to be consistently in range of what you’re after. So consider the ambient temperature, actual mash time, the insulating properties of the insulating wrap, and with all that in mind, proceed to the next brew day.